立山黑部可說是台灣旅客前往中部地區最愛的景點(沒有之一),不過因為距離東京、大阪、名古屋三大都會區都有點距離,所以在規劃自助旅行方面跟其他地區相比是屬於進階班,阿吉雖然也寫過好幾篇介紹立山黑部的文章,但始終缺少一篇總整理的懶人包,這次特別集結之前寫過或沒寫過的文章統整為一篇懶人包~
~立山黑部基本資料~
電話:076-432-2819
時間:4月15日~11月30日(每年開山日會變動)
價錢:¥10,850(電鐵富山~信濃大町)、兒童半價
交通指引:
扇澤→JR松本站轉大系線到信濃大町站(約55分),搭乘路線巴士到扇澤站(約40分)
立山→JR富山站徒步3分到電鐵富山站,搭乘立山線到立山站(約60分)
停留時間:5~8小時
一、如何前往立山黑部
立山黑部一般是指富山側「立山站」到長野側「扇澤」的這段路線,全長約40km,正式名稱為「立山黑部アルペンルート」,前往立山黑部最方便的機場就是富山機場或小松機場,不過富山和小松機場的航班很少,所以大多數的人都還是選擇從從東京、名古屋及大阪前往,而從這3處前往立山黑部所花費的時間並不會差太多,不過行經路線及交通票券都有不同。
1.關東地區出發
東京(新幹線1時50分)→長野(特急巴士1時45分)→扇沢
東京(新幹線2時10分)→富山(富山鐵道1時)→立山
適合票券:北陸拱型PASS 、長野新潟PASS (須買富山~上越妙高新幹線¥5050)
2.中部地區出發
名古屋(JR特急2時)→松本(大系線55分)→信濃大町(路線巴士40分)→扇沢
名古屋(JR特急3時40分)→富山(富山鐵道1時)→立山
3.關西地區出發
新大阪(新幹線50分)→名古屋(JR特急2時)→松本(大系線55分)→信濃大町(路線巴士40分)→扇沢
新大阪(特急2時40分)→金沢(新幹線20分)→富山(富山鐵道1時)→立山
適合票券:北陸拱型PASS、關西北陸PASS(須買上越妙高~長野新幹線¥2810)、立山黑部套票
二、如何規劃行程
了解立山黑部的地理位置及兩側起迄點之後,再來就是規劃立山黑部的行程;一般來說從富山側進入的遊客會比較多,不過旺季期間從兩側湧入的人潮都相當多。要穿越這條路線必須不斷地更換交通工具,從立山穿越到扇澤,光是搭乘交通工具及等車與徒步的時間最少就需要3小時,如果再加上散步及用餐等中途停留時間,大約要花上6~8小時,因此立山黑部行程規劃方式大致分為以下3種:
1.中途折返型:如果從立山出發,可以選擇到室堂、大觀峰或是黑部湖這3個點再折回;如果從扇澤出發,可以選擇黑部湖或室堂這2個點再折回。
優點:不用把行李運到另一側。
缺點:較為耗時而且回程景觀重複,如果不利用周遊券,交通花費也較高;以立山出發到最遠的黑部湖再折回為例,交通費為¥10,790,時間上至少需要8小時,如果再適逢旺季人潮可能要減少景點的停留時間,如果從扇澤到室堂折回花費時間約6小時,交通費為¥8,800。
2.當日穿越型:可以選擇扇澤側或是立山側出發,一日穿越立山黑部。
優點:沿途景觀不會重複。
缺點:需另外花錢先將行李運送到對側,前後一晚必須選擇住在兩側的飯店,才能有充裕的時間可以穿越立山黑部。
3.山上過夜型:立山黑部的飯店很少,主要位於室堂及彌陀之原
優點:有充份的時間可以停留在山上,還能觀賞夜晚星空,也方便機動調整行程。
缺點:山上飯店價位會比平地要貴上許多。
決定好立山黑部行程之後就可以訂房了,扇沢側一般會選擇住在松本或大町溫泉鄉,松本市區的商務飯店選擇多,價格較為親民,不過距離扇沢較遠,早上要比較早出門;大町溫泉鄉的溫泉飯店價格雖然比較貴,但住的舒服,而且離扇沢也只要25分車程。富山側的住宿選擇就更多了,住在JR車站附近或路面電車可達的地區都可以,甚至住金沢搭乘新幹線到富山也只要20分車程。如果是要在山上過夜的選擇就很少了,只有室堂的立山飯店、立山室堂山莊等,以及彌陀之原的彌陀之原飯店。
如果想去立山黑部,但懶的花時間規劃行程,也可以考慮參加客路等旅行社的一日遊行程~
~立山雪壁大谷漫步.暢遊阿爾卑斯路線美景(名古屋出發一日遊)~
三、四種優惠交通票券
立山黑部的交通費相當昂貴,富山~信濃大町的單程交通費就高達¥10,850,最好可以利用優惠票券以節省支出;立山黑部能使用的優惠票券如下:
1.立山黑部&高山&松本周遊券
票價:¥17,500、兒童半價
有效期間:連續5日
販售地點:先在海外購買兌換券(MCO),然後3個月內到東京、名古屋、京都、新大阪等車站的JR東海窗口兌換,如果入境才購買則為¥18500。
簡介:這張PASS的使用範圍是名古屋~松本~信濃大町、名古屋~高山~富山的JR特急(自由席)、快速、普通列車可以無限搭乘,還能利用4次指定席,也能無限搭乘立山黑部的各種交通工具,因為這張PASS是針對外國旅客發行的PASS,所以也是4張票券之中最多人使用者。
延伸閱讀:深受好評的立山黑部&高山&松本周遊券~
2.立山黑部套票
票價:
飛驒路線(名古屋出發)¥18,160、兒童¥9,360
白鷺路線(名古屋出發)¥21,850,兒童¥10,970
有效期間:連續8日
販售地點:出發車站及其周邊主要JR車站
簡介:立山黑部套票是日本國內常態發行的優惠套票,使用方式和周遊券略有不同;這張套票內容分為去程票、自由乘降區間(信濃大町~富山)、回程票這3個部份,購買前要先決定從何站出發(同時也是終點站),出發站有名古屋、靜岡、濱松、岐阜、大阪、京都等站,出發站以外無法購得這張套票。
以名古屋為出發點必須採繞一圈方式進行,去程與回程各可以使用1次特急指定席,也有可以途中下車的區間,但「途中下車」只能單向前進而無法往回走,「富山~信濃大町」區間可以無限次數自由上下車。這張套票還可以選擇從京都大阪地區出發,路線分為北陸線.中央線,以及北陸線往返這兩種方式,是京都大阪地區前往立山黑部的最佳優惠票券。
3.富山電鐵.立山黑部5日券
票價:¥21,700、兒童半價
有效期間:連續5日
販售地點:電鐵富山站、富山地鐵乘車券中心、新黑部站、宇奈月溫泉站
簡介:富山地鐵.立山黑部5日自由乘車券的使用範圍是阿爾卑斯路線的「立山~黑部湖」以及「富山市內電車&鐵道」全線,這張乘車券在僅能到達黑部湖,無法穿越到扇澤及松本,比較適合想要從立山側入山又折返的遊客,也很適合從小松機場或富山機場進出同時想前往立山黑部及宇奈月溫泉的遊客。
延伸閱讀:富山地方鐵道.阿爾卑斯5日券
4.立山黑部加購票
票價:¥9,800、兒童半價
有效期間:5日內
販售地點:關東地區為成田機場及羽田機場的JR東日本旅客服務中心、東京/新宿/池袋/長野車站;關西地區為京都/新大阪/大阪/金澤/富山車站。
簡介:這張加購票以長野為起點,先搭乘特快巴士到扇澤,再穿越立山黑部後到達終點富山(反向亦可),但這張加購票的性質屬於單程車票,不能來回使用也不能中途折返,所以最好是搭配全國版JR周遊券及北陸拱型周遊券,如搭配JR東日本新潟/長野地區周遊券或關西&北陸地區周遊券則須再補購部分路段車資。
延伸閱讀:已成為常態發售的立山黑部加購票~
以上4張票券之中,立山黑部加購票為單向穿越型、富山電鐵.立山黑部5日券僅能到達黑部湖,較適合規劃折返型,所以旅客大多會選擇購買立山黑部&高山&松本周遊券與立山黑部套票,另外要注意的是這4種優惠票券都不能事先上網預定班次。
比較常用的2張票券差異,立山黑部套票唯一優勢是「有效日期8日」,其他都是立山黑部&高山&松本周遊券勝出,因此除非行程超過5日、要走白鷺路線順道去金澤、或者是要從關西地區出發的旅客才需要買立山黑部套票,否則當然是購買立山黑部&高山&松本周遊券會比較划算與便利。
如果因為行程關係無法購買優惠票,或是想預定特定班次,就可以在乘車日一個月前上網預約,不過僅能預約富山側的斜面電車、以及長野側的電氣巴士,中間的交通工具也都是排隊上車;另外,2019/5/19~10/30期間,可以在日本的便利商店事前購買乘車兌換券,而且價格還比現場購買再優惠一些,不過也無法預約班次~
~網路預約班次~
四、穿越立山黑部的6種交通工具
立山黑部阿爾卑斯路線約40km,穿越過程除了信濃大町到扇澤的路線巴士以及立山到富山的富山電鐵以外,整個路線總共利用6種各具特色的交通工具,所以到立山黑部旅遊除了觀賞大自然的風景之外,也可以藉此瞭解日本如何利用各種交通方式來克服大自然的障礙。
1.扇澤~黑部水庫:交通工具是關電隧道無軌電車,又稱為電氣巴士,簡單的說就是利用電力行走的巴士,這是當初在興建黑部水庫時為了搬運物材所製造用來在隧道行走的交通工具,所以是立山黑部限定的交通工具。
2.黑部湖~黑部平:交通工具是黑部斜面電車,黑部斜面電車為標高差約400m、最大傾斜度達31度的鋼索鐵道電車,為了兼顧保護自然環境及防止雪害,是日本唯一全線採用地下式的斜面電車。
3.黑部平~大觀峰:交通工具是立山纜車,立山纜車的標高差為500m,又稱為「移動的展望台」,這種中途連一根支柱也沒有使用的纜車稱為「ONE-SPAN」方式,日本此類纜車之中距離最長的就是立山纜車。
4.大觀峰~室堂:交通工具是立山隧道無軌電車,和關電隧道無軌電車同為利用電力行走的巴士。
5.室堂~美女平:交通工具是立山高原巴士,分為途中可在彌陀之原下車以及直達的巴士,排隊上車時須留意乘車的月台不同,這段路程標高差達1500m,沿途車窗所見的景觀相當漂亮。
6.美女平~立山:交通工具為立山斜面電車,為路線平均傾斜度24度的鋼索鐵道電車,車輛為2輛構成,內部為階梯式構造,外部後方還附有曾經作為資材搬運的貨物架。
延伸閱讀:立山黑部行程的8種交通工具~
五、景點安排及介紹
1.雪之大谷室堂
標高2450m的室堂高原是阿爾卑斯路線的最高處,也是立山黑部人氣最高又最值得停留的景點,尤其是開山之際高達20m的雪之大谷,更是立山黑部遊客最高峰的季節,其他季節前來也都有不同風貌,可說除了封山時期之外都有許多旅客前來造訪。
室堂(也稱為室堂平)是立山火山活動所形成的熔岩台地,以室堂車站為起點,繞著2個絕景的火口湖周邊一圈散步,全程約1小時,是一般遊客都能接受的大眾路線。如果時間充裕再加上天氣良好,可以考慮走到較深處的雷鳥澤及地獄谷,全程約2小時30分。
延伸閱讀:立山部行程的最高點-室堂平
2.迫力滿點的黑部水庫
黑部水庫是日本代表性的水庫之一,也是立山黑部著名的景點,尤其是每年6月26日~10月15日期間的觀光放水,每秒10公噸以上的水量迫力十足,對於無法在雪壁期間前往立山黑部的旅客,黑部水庫觀光放水是最值得前來觀賞的景點。
標高1470m的黑部水庫是日本最大的水庫,水庫堤防高度186m也是日本第一;黑部水庫有2條路線可以選擇,其一是直接穿越水庫上方到達對面車站,不過遊客大多會選擇另一條路往上爬到水庫展望台(220個階梯),從極高的位置往下方眺望黑部水庫的壯麗景觀。
3.絕景大觀峰
標高2316m的大觀峰站為立山纜車和立山隧道無軌電車的換車地點,連接黒部平和大觀峰的立山纜車又被稱為「移動的展望台」,從纜車裡面望過去可以把後立山連峰為背景的黒部湖美景一覽無遺;每年9月下旬到10月上旬的楓紅季節時會呈現一片紅葉的景像,是大觀峰最美麗的季節。
延伸閱讀:從黑部平坐立山纜車移動到大觀峰!
4.高山植物寶庫彌陀之原
標高1930m的彌陀之原是立山黑部行程中可以輕鬆散步的高層溼原,也是日本國內高山植物的寶庫,溼原上到處開著白羊毛鬍子草,也有不少開花的高山植物;散步道分為內圈行程及外圈行程,內圈行程約40分可走完,外圈行程則約1小時20分可走完,散步道沿途都設有木製步道,可以悠閒輕鬆地散步。
延伸閱讀:廣大的高原溼地-彌陀之原
5.森林浴的美女平
美女平一帶除了有樹齡超過百年的立山杉之外,還有許多生長茂盛的廣葉樹,所以被選為「日本森林浴之林100選」,同時棲息著60種以上的野鳥,也被稱為觀察鳥類的聖地。美女平探勝步道全程距離約2.1km、約需1小時15分,整體來說步道比起彌陀之原更為陡峭。
延伸閱讀:美女平&立山站途中下車
六、四季情報及穿著服裝
立山黑部在各個季節都有不同自然風貌,所以在安排行程時如果能事先了解季節特色及活動日期,就能使旅行增添幾分樂趣,也更方便準備入山時的穿著服裝。
至於各個季節的人潮擁擠程度,照官網區分為A~E這5個等級,A級在等待斜面電車或纜車等交通工具時,有可能會排隊等上1小時半,B等級則是可能會等上1小時、C等級可能會等上數10分,至於D與E等級則幾乎一路順暢到底,所以在規劃行程前最好能事先了解人潮情況,好方便因應準備。
立山黑部每年在4月中旬開山(每年略有變更),許多遊客搶在這個時間造訪立山黑部,就是為了一睹高達20m的雪壁,所以是遊客最多的季節,尤其是4月中旬開山到5月初的黃金週假期,照官網預測人潮擁擠程度都是最高等級的A級,要等到5月中旬之後人潮才會減少。
室堂4月的溫度會出現0度以下低溫,即使進入5月的溫度仍為0~10度,所以仍以冬季的服裝穿著為主,防水外套、長靴、手套、圍巾、帽子等禦寒衣物不可缺少。
2.夏季(7~8月)
6月26日起黑部水庫開始觀光放水,6月也是雷鳥育子的時期,所以較有目睹雷鳥的機會。進入7月以後室堂的許多高山植物也會開花,不過即使是夏季前來,室堂仍有不少殘雪。至於夏季人潮情況,除了8月中旬適逢盂蘭盆節連假會遇到A或B等級,其他日期都還算順暢。即使到了盛夏的8月,室堂最高均溫仍為17度左右,所以在夏季前來立山黑部仍要準備長袖上衣、針織衫或是薄外套等方便穿脫的衣物。
3.秋季(9~10月)
進入秋天就是賞楓季節,從9月中下旬開始依高度而逐漸楓紅,原則上依序為室堂、彌陀之原、大觀峰/黑部平、美女平等。其中最著名的賞楓場所就屬大觀峰~黑部平這段纜車路程,整個山區滿是紅黃色楓葉。9月第3週及10月第2週各有1次3連休,又剛好是楓紅季節,所以會遇到A或B等級的人潮,其他時期就都還好。
4.冬季(11月)
10月之後的立山黑部,均溫會驟降到10度以下,所以要準備較為厚實又方便穿脫的冬裝,才能應付天氣多變的山上氣候,到了11月已經開始飄雪,氣溫則會降至0度以下,所以務必要準備冬季的禦寒衣物。12月1日起立山黑部就封山,無法再入山。
七、行李寄送服務
在進行阿爾卑斯山穿越行程之前,最好事先處理行李的問題,這樣才能輕鬆享受登山的樂趣,當地業者為了解決旅客的這個問題,因此提供行李寄送的有料服務,可以幫助遊客將行李送往穿越行程的另一端,費用每件依運送地點不同為¥1,500~¥2,500。
依據官網資料顯示,行李寄送方式共有以下6種:
1.大町溫泉旅館或信濃大町站アルブスロマンス館←→富山市內/宇奈月飯店或電鐵富山站、¥1500
2.大町溫泉旅館或信濃大町站アルブスロマンス館←→立山站總合案內中心、¥1800
3.大町溫泉旅館或信濃大町站アルブスロマンス館←→彌陀之原旅館或立山旅館(室堂)、¥2000
4.富山市內/宇奈月飯店或電鐵富山站←→彌陀之原旅館或立山旅館(室堂)、¥1800
5.MIDORI長野站→電鐵富山站、¥2500
6.電鐵富山站→扇澤、¥2000
以上第5&6為單向寄送、1~4寄送方式為雙向寄送,就看遊客行程安排來決定要如何寄送,不過要留意每種寄送方式的服務時間與領取時間都不同。
此外也有提供短程的宇奈月溫泉.富山市區飯店&電鐵富山站→立山總合案內中心→立山飯店.彌陀之原飯店的寄送服務,費用分別為¥1400及¥1300~
各地區所有飯店幾乎都有提供這項服務(飯店名單詳參官網),不過當然僅限於住宿者才享有這項服務,而且在辦理住宿登記時同時就要預約這項服務,寄送時間為上午8點30分以前,領取行李時間為下午4點以後(各地區的寄送及領取時間略有不同)。
雖然單件的寄送費用並不便宜,但使用這項服務能以較輕鬆的裝備進行立山黑部行程,所以還是有使用的必要性。因為行李是論件計價,所以儘量把行李整理成1件才能節省費用。
延伸閱讀:阿爾卑斯路線的有料行李運送服務~
(以上交通路線圖、人潮及服裝穿著、行李運送等圖片均取自立山黑部官網)
相關文章
第一次規劃名古屋自助旅行就上手~從「食遊住行」四個面向分析~
住宿訂房&行程安排&優惠資訊
訂房網站:
行程安排:
上網及購物:
可惜今年受疫情影響,很多人預計前往立山黑部旅遊的行程都已經推遲或是取消了。
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